Fort Saskatchewan Contractors

Post your home improvement, construction or maintenance project online and get matched to top-rated contractors in Fort Saskatchewan or use our contractor directory below to find local Fort Saskatchewan residential home improvement contractors such as a Fort Saskatchewan plumber and more for your kitchen remodeling, bathroom renovation, basement finishing, roofing or electrical project. HandyCanadian.com has qualified professionals in your area for all your home renovation, repair, maintenance and new construction needs.

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Project Title:	Driveway resurfacing
Type:	Residential
Location:	Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta
Main concern:	Price
Budget:	Uncertain

Project Description: We have a concrete driveway and would like the driveway resurfaced. The driveway is 10ft wide 75ft long.

Project Title:	In need of new eavestroughs.
Type:	Residential
Location:	Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta
Main concern:	Quality
Budget:	Uncertain

Project Description: I am in need of new eavestroughs on my house, and two sides of my garage, would like this done as soon as possible. On line quotes would be appreciated. Thank you, Bill

Project Title:	New Deck
Type:	Residential
Location:	Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta
Main concern:	Quality
Budget:	$1,000 - $5,000

Project Description: I am interested in getting a quote providing you would have an opening over the next week or two? I wish to build a 10 X 30 deck with cement footings and an extended nailer board (about another 15-20 feet), with the base decking frame. I am finishing with TREX decking and glass/aluminum railings so please add this as a second part of the quote. Deck is on slight grade away from the house to a dry pond area. Not landscaped as yet. House is new. Location is Fort Saskatchewan. Please reply with a guesstimate for the above and availability so we can agree an onsite estimate is worth your while. Thank you. Kind Regards, John

hot water on demand system
I have had trouble with my hot water on demand system since moving in to a new home 2 years ago. Made many calls on the one year builder warranty. A plumber would come out ( a day or two later) and it would be a temporary fix. The hot water goes totally off. You can imagine getting in a shower and it goes frigid. Then you spend the next half hour in the basement or ouside trying to fix it. I have learned how to remove the lint from the trap by removing the fan, how to check for ice build up outside, and how to restart the system. One or the other has worked until this winter. With extended -20 and colder weather the hot water shut off totally. I called the manufacturer, it has a 15 yr. parts waranty. They said its condensation freezing in the line inside the house somewhere. Nothing to do with their system. I have to call a plumber to remedy. In the meantime they said to remove the unit cover so the system could suck air from the house rather than the line outside. This worked initially, but shut off again in a couple days. Then when I tried to restart it, it sounded like a train and started shaking, but started up. Since then the weather is better, the cover is back on and it works again. However, it is harder to get a tub full of hot water. The hot is on full blast and it fluctuates from cold to hot. This unit has really been an inconvenience. Question 1: I heard of someone that had some kind of a box installed on the ouside of the house to prevent the pipes freezing up inside. Does anyone know what this is, and how it's installed and if it will even fix the problem? Question 2: Should the builder have some responsibility since the problem was never fixed.

The Latest Reply

I have installed several on demand water heater systems along with troubleshooting existing systems. There are several things that are required to make them run properly. First off some units normally require around 60 psi water pressure, which is a city water pressure system. Some do work on well water but most units work on a "water differential switch", so low water pressure means no heat. Some units also require at least 3/4 inch water lines to and from the unit to get the proper pressure differential. Secondly, depending on the units BTU input/output, it may require at least a 1 inch gas line. In other words the unit is "starving for fuel". I have found, sometimes the gas meter is not large enough to handle the required amount of fuel to operate. Next check the venting. I kept the venting as short as possible according to the manufacturers installation specs. All of these things should be in the installation manual. If you don't have one check with the manufacturer. In Ontario we are required to leave the installation manual with the appliance. I have found that running the unit without the cover on, could end up freezing the unit on a cold night. If your unit is in the basement, the basement could end up in a negative air pressure causing cold air to freeze the water heater. This could cause some serious damage! Some units come with a cold air intake flap. Check with your manufacturer regards this, as this maybe the outside box you are talking about. I hope this helps your problem. In my opinion, when these water heaters are installed properly, they are wonderful, well worth it.

Cracked tub surrond tile
I have 6x6 tile on the wall surronding a soaker tub in the bathroom. One tile has mysteriously cracked. It is not at the center of the wall, but not on the edge either. 2 rows up from the tub. There are not tiles above it. Also thengrout is cracked for a couple of feet away from it. My question is can 1 tile be removed and replaced on this gyproc wall, or will the whole surrond and gyproc have to be redone. My guess is that the tile was adhered directly to the gyproc by the builder. I see no evidence of any kind of a grate or backing. Of course the new home warranty is up.

The Latest Reply

Yes it is possible to remove a tile without damaging the substrate but much will depend on what type of tile and what was used to apply the tile to the substrate . You will have to exercise care in doing so. First the grout surrounding the tile must be removed. I prefer to score and cut the broken tile into smaller pieces with my grinder or roto zip, again exercising care not to go too deep and cut the substrate (a vacuum will be required to help keep the dust down and fully cover the tub). Using a thin putty blade I slid it behind the tile being carefull not to apply presure to the substrate. You will then have to remove as much of the adhesive off as possible so the the new tile can be level. Hope this helps. Kingsway Construction Inc. Glenn Rosborough